Rahel - 05.01.2023
Shoemaking is a fascinating craft thousands of years old. The shoemaker a craftsman and artist at the same time, with a lot of experience and skill in different areas.
In collaboration with the Swiss cultural magazine "Ensuite", www.ensuite.ch , we portray various shoemakers from around the world. On the one hand out of pure fascination, how a piece of leather becomes a work of art and on the other hand to give this important craft, a piece of culture, and the person behind this art, more deserved attention in a fast-moving world characterized by disposable goods.
As a store for handmade boots and shoes, we naturally share the passion of handmade shoes and boots. The shoemaker is part of our world and we work closely with them to resole our favorites, repair, for new heels or extend the shaft.
This time we spoke to Rodrigo and Julio from Zapato Sanchez in Canada.
Custom Shoes By Zapato Sanchez -Store #2924 West Edmonton Mall - 882 - 170 St. NW Edmonton AB. T5T 3J7 - Canada
++1 (780) 444-3225 - customshoes@zapatosanchez.com
Driven by a passion and love for fine leather, the family business has been crafting shoes and accessories in Edmonton, Alberta, Canada for over 35 years.
Julio and Estrella Sanchez opened their store in West Edmonton Mall in 1985 and have since been supported by many local businesses and artists such as Gravity Pope, Mr. Derk, Indochino, Western Fashion Week, Snowflake and Michael Godard.
What began as a leather creations boutique and cobbler store has now become a respected shoe store adorned with a library of handcrafted luxury men's shoes with the help of her two children.
Her son Rodrigo owes his professional training in shoe design from the Arsutoria School in Milan, Italy, to the innovative combination of ancient and modern Italian design techniques. Romina brings her international entrepreneurial skills from her native Chile. Every aspect of this business focuses on style, quality and comfort.
Do you also repair shoes or do you only make new ones?
Julio: Yes, we repair and maintain the highest quality shoes and purses. Our service prices are the highest in town because we offer the best service when it comes to repairs. We are also located in a mall called West Edmonton Mall, which is the largest mall in North America. It also houses high-end shoe stores like Luis Vitton.
If so, what is the cost of a protective sole for a boot?
The cost is 80 Canadian dollars.
How did you become a shoemaker?
Rodrigo: I became a shoemaker because it was a family tradition. It started with my ancestors in Spain. When I learned about the craft, I fell in love and now share my family's passion.
Julio: I learned the craft from my father in Chile. But I chose this career path because I had to choose between being a welder and a craftsman when I came to Canada from Chile. I found a niche for shoe repair and decided to take the plunge into self-employment.
Where did you learn your trade?
Rodrigo: I learned the craft from my father and also studied in Milan, Italy, at the Art Sutoria Institute of shoe design and pattern making.
Julio: I learned the craft in Chile. I made sandals from old car tires. My son Rodrigo Sanchez studied pattern making at the ARS Sutoria in Milan, Italy. We worked together and founded the Zapato Sanchez brand.
If you weren't a shoemaker, what would you be?
Rodrigo: If I wasn't a shoemaker, I would be teaching. I enjoy passing on my knowledge and connecting with people.
Julio: I would work with leather and make leatherwork such as bags, clothes and accessories or even refurbish furniture.
What is your favorite job in shoemaking?
Rodrigo: My favorite work in the store is making patterns. I love creating designs and testing the limits.
Julio: I bring my shoes and paint them by hand.
How many hours a day do you work in the shoe workshop?
Rodrigo: I work about 30-40 hours a week in the studio.
Julio: In 2017, I moved my studio from my home to my workshop and started dedicating all my time to making shoes when I wasn't repairing them. Since then, I've dedicated 25% of my time to shoemaking and today it's 44%.
What has changed in your profession over the years?
Rodrigo: The biggest thing that has changed in our profession is the footwear market as a whole in terms of fast fashion. Most shoes are made for commercial reasons. Fast fashion has a negative impact on the environment and people's general health.
Julio: I have more external resources that help me make shoes. For example, I get the leather from Chile.
What makes a good shoemaker?
Rodrigo: A good shoemaker has the ability to be creative and organized. It's important to follow through on projects and manage your time.
Julio: Someone who pays attention to detail and someone who is patient.
What is the biggest challenge for you in shoemaking?
Rodrigo: Our biggest challenge is access to materials, tools and machinery. In Canada, we lack these things because shoemaking is not a big part of our culture.
Julio: I am expanding my shoe range. It is extremely difficult to find experienced shoemakers in Canada who speak English. Communication is extremely important because time and business costs are getting higher and higher.
What are the advantages of a custom-made shoe?
Rodrigo: There are many advantages of a custom-made shoe. The biggest one is the quality, the fit and the comfort.
Julio: Every part of the shoe can be made from the highest quality materials. And of course this makes the fit more precise and comfortable. It's also more durable.
What do you have to pay particular attention to when caring for handmade shoes?
Rodrigo: You have to polish and protect the shoes. We live in extreme weather conditions. The air is very dry, which affects your leather shoes. You need to polish your shoes regularly. Even if you don't wear them often.
Julio: Keep them in a shoe tree when they are not being worn. Polish them and keep them away from dry areas, e.g. heating ducts that blow in warm air in winter.
Which shoes are in fashion at the moment?
Rodrigo: We focus on men's shoes and find that men's shoe fashion is always about the classics. Derbies, oxfords and loafers are very popular and will always be in fashion.
Julio: We make all the classics: derbies, oxfords, slip-ons, ankle boots, lace-up boots, Chelsea boots. These styles never go out of fashion.
How often does a customer come into your store?
We have an average of 8 customers a day.
Do you have many regular customers, and what kind of people are they?
Yes, they are customers with high incomes.
Do you have celebrity customers?
For example, the American painter Michael Godard, the ice hockey coach Mactavish, the Candian model and influencer Daniel Maguire.
What do you talk about with your customers?
How healthy it is to wear well-made shoes. Leather is a natural and breathable product.
Who repairs your own shoes?
Julio: I do that.
Where were you last on vacation, and what shoes did you have with you?
Julio: In Cancun, Mexico, I had my own.
Is therea shoe you'll never forget?
Julio: The first sandal I ever made. I was 14 years old. We were going to the desert with friends. It had a strap around the toes and ankle and used tires as the sole. In the middle of the desert, I lost the sole and had to walk back with difficulty. And I learned that well-made footwear is extremely important.
What is your absolute favorite shoe and which shoes don't you like at all?
Julio: My favorite shoe is the Dreby; with a cushioned Vibram sole.
What are your plans for the future?
Julio: I am designing a loafer shoe and will offer this type of shoe. I also teach our customers my craft together with my son.
What footwear-related moment will you never forget?
Rodrigo: The quality time I spend with my family while we are on this journey.
Julio: The first sandal I ever made, which I mentioned above.
